Picking Diamonds

ABOUT DIAMONDS

There is nothing comparable to a diamond in hardness; it is therefore nearly imperishable. Sapphire is the next hardest gemstone but its cutting resistance is 140 times less than that of diamond. However the hardness of diamond is different in the make up of the individual crystal faces. This allows a diamond to be cut with diamond powder. Diamonds do have cleavage lines and some of the largest diamonds ever found - such as the Kohinoor diamond, are examined thoroughly both at the surface and internally before being cleaved into workable sized pieces, so that flawed parts can be removed and maximum yield and purity assured.

Diamond is the most reflective transparent gem. When light strikes a diamond it can either reflect from the highly polished surface or transmit into the stone. These light rays may be reflected many times within the stone before finally exiting. It is light that allows a diamond to reveal its true beauty.

The angle of every facet affects the way light reflects and refracts, resulting in the brilliance, fire and scintillation. Some combinations of proportions may accentuate brilliance, while others give greater fire from within the gem. There are many different proportion combinations that manage to achieve the intricate balance of brilliance, fire and scintillation.

Only your jeweller is able to compare diamonds from different sources, side by side to ensure the very best combination.

Brilliance - is white light reflected from the surface and from the inside of a polished diamond. Quite simply, brilliance is the returning of white light to the viewer's eye.

Fire - the rainbow colours seen in diamond are the result of dispersion or the splitting of white light into the colours of the spectrum.
Well-proportioned diamonds encourage longer light paths that continue reflecting within the stone. The more the light continues to bounce around within the stone, the more it disperses into spectral colours, creating greater fire.

Scintillation - is the contrasting light and dark flashes seen when there is movement of the diamond, the observer or the light source. Scintillation is the flashing light that is reflected from the crown.


THE FOUR 'C's OF DIAMONDS

COLOUR

Refers to lack of colour- the range in colour grades from "D" to "Z". D being the whitest and rarest. However with fancy coloured diamonds the greater the intensity of colour, the rarer and more expensive they are. Colour grade is assigned by comparison to a master set of colour grading stones that each act as the borderline between two colour grades. D to Z grades are a range of tones of colour where one merges into the next.

CLARITY

Refers to the amount of natural inclusion in diamond the range is from F (Flawless) to IF (Internally Flawless), to VVS (Very Very Slight Inclusions, to VS (Very Slight Inclusions), to SI (Slight Inclusions) to P1/2/3 (Inclusions which are eye visible). As a diamond forms within the earth and travels to the surface, the extreme conditions make it rare that it will be perfect in every aspect. Diamonds with fewer inclusions are rarer and, therefore, more valuable. Minor inclusions affect the price of the diamond even though they may not affect its overall beauty. Very large inclusions that are more visible can obstruct the light paths in the diamond, resulting in reduced transparency.

CUT

Generally refers to the shape of the diamond i.e. round brilliant, emerald cut, princess cut etc. However it also refers to the proportions of the diamond, which affect the brilliance of the stone. If a stone has not been cut well the light will not be reflected perfectly through the top of the stone.

This is one of the most important factors in choosing a diamond. The combination of proportions can have a dramatic effect on a diamond’s face-up appearance, regardless of whether a stone is claw or bezel set. A stone of high colour and clarity may still appear dark or lifeless if the quality of cut is poor, affecting its beauty and value.

Diamond is said to come from the Greek word, adamas meaning unconquerable.

David is able to show you a range of diamonds on request at very competitive prices and of course any valuation we do with the piece sold we stand by, being members of JATVC and trained in diamond grading.

Some diamonds come with their own certificates.
HRD - Hoge Raad Voor Diamant - Diamond Hight Council
EGL - European Gemmological Laboratory
IGI - International Gemmological Institute
GIA - Gemmological Institute of America

CARATS

The word carat is derived from Carob, the name of the tree whose seeds were always the same weight and therefore used by the early traders to measure the size of precious stones and pearls. The Carob was standardised to each trading country's units of weight, but a London Carob was different to a Venetian Carob and both could be unlike a Madras Carob. As gem trading increased throughout the world the Carat weight became by international agreement the metric carat 0.02 gram.

Diamonds are bought and sold by carat weight. each carat is divided into 100 points, a 1 pointer is 0.01 carats, a 20 pointer is 0.20 carats, a 1/2 carat or 50 pointer is 0.50 carats and a 1 carat stone is 100 points.

Diamonds differ in value for many reasons, colour and purity being the main considerations. For instance a 1 carat fine stone of top quality and purity could be $40,000. A medium quality stone could be $15,000, and a poor example heavily included (internal marks) could be $3,000.

But smaller diamonds are cut exactly the same way as the 1 carat, with the same amount of care they have the same amount of facets as their larger counterparts. Many designs now have a lot of smaller diamonds set in such a way that they sparkle and shine over a much larger area. This is called pave setting (pronounced pavay).

 

HERMITAGE DIAMONDS

David Connor Designs is a supplier of Hermitage Diamonds, which is the brand of one of Australia's longest established diamond companies.

To produce the brightest gemstone the master cutter must start with the finest diamond crystal. Most Hermitage Diamonds are bought directly from Russia, and are of an unparalleled quality and beauty. Better diamond crystals allow a cutter to unlock the true beauty of the stone and return the maximum amount of light to the viewer. Using only the finest diamond crystals from around the world, gives the Hermitage Diamond cutter the ultimate advantage in crafting the worlds most beautiful diamonds.

Click for more information on Hermitage Diamonds